Tuesday 10th
An early start. And after sampling a quite exceptional array
of Madame Diderot’s jams and preserves it was only a short, icy walk to the
cellars of Couly-Dutheil.
Not a long history here, but since being established 80 years
ago, the domaine has risen to become the flagship of Chinon wines. The
impressive, medal-winning consistency was sparked off by founder Baptiste
Dutheil’s first Gold medal back in 1927!
We were met by current owner Monsieur Jacques Couly who gave
us the run down on the 2013 vintage. It was an average year in volume terms,
but a late harvest meant achieving ripeness and phenolic maturity was
challenging. However, the Couly-Dutheil team are convinced that the meticulous
vineyard work and speed of harvest has made a good wine this year.
The domaine is a Cabernet Franc specialist, their wines
really are quite special and I feel they do have to be drunk at the perfect
moment with the perfect accompaniment.
They have pulled back on the use of oak in recent years and the wines
need bottle age. However once these wines do have the necessary bottle age they
are sublime, with a marvellous finesse of blackberry fruit … not heavy wines
but great with hearty dishes! We tasted the whole range with La Closerie and
Clos l’Echo cuvees standing out for me.
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| M. Jacques Couly |
Everything was
still frosted over when we emerged from the cellars of Couly-Dutheil so it was
hasty defrosting mission on the car before setting off for Vouvray to meet the
wonderful Champalou family. We made good
time and an hour later we were east of the town of Tours amongst the famous
chalk soils of the Vouvray plateau and the unique climate created by the
Loire tributaries the Cisse and the Brenne.
Less influence from the Atlantic creates a more continental climate with
warm summers and freezing winters (witnessed first hand!) allowing dry, off-dry,
noble rot and sparkling wines to be made from the dominant Chenin Blanc
grape.
The remarkable Champalou family started from scratch with a
tiny 1.5 hectares and is purely a family affair. Smiling Didier works the
vines, his adorable wife Catherine runs the business and their talented
daughter Celine is now in charge of the winemaking. Unlike most Vouvray domaines that are 60%
sparkling production, the Champalou’s 21 hectares of Chenin Blanc are geared to
make the original, off-dry-style Vouvray where the limy acidity and classic
quince and citrus fruit are rounded beautifully with a splash of sweetness! So
if you want the real Vouvray then this is the wine to drink!
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| The Champalou Family |
Time to thaw out and after a minor puncture set-back, the
heating was on full blast as we motored to the little village of Montrichard in
the Cher Valley to meet Pierre Chainier of Maisons Channier and Paul
Buisse. Pierre welcomed us and ushered
us into a little bistro where a warming bavette frites was again a welcomed
respite from the still-sub-zero outside temperature!
Pierre is a tall man with a sense of purpose and
determination. Tony knew his father well, was the first to buy wine from him
and instantly remembered the same characteristics. With his uncanny likeness to
Richard O’Brien I was expecting him to either give me a crystal or burst into a
rendition of ‘Time Warp’ at any moment during the tasting! With modern cellars
and a now-large production, Pierre and his two brothers run a tight ship. They
now specialise in Sauvignon from the Touraine region but also make a very good
Vouvray.
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| Pierre Channier & Tony |
Next stop and close by in the village of Noyers-sur-Cher is
Domaine Bellevue. Here owner-winemaker Patrick Vauvy, a friendly giant, is busy
making no fuss, formidable, natural-style wines. His giant smile is warm but his cellar today
was freezing! We braved again the sub zero temperatures that were naturally
settling the young 2013’s and tasted through every vat, each sample taken by
his shovel-like hands! These wines have a unique, individual winemaker stamp and
the purity of the 2013s are very impressive.
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| Patrick Vauvy |
A short drive only
for our last meeting in the village of Pouille with the Bougrier family who
make our stunning Sauvignon Blanc, the hero bestseller Abbesse. The fifth-generation winemaker
and grower Noël Bougrier was on hand with his trusty side kick Olivier for the
extensive tasting of the 2013s. This is our 20th year working with
the Bougrier family and a great relationship has been built. And with this stunning
quality of wine will certainly continue.
Glad once more to
be inside out of the cold and after a quick cup of tea we launched into the
mammoth tasting in the well-lit tasting room. We finally decided blends after two
hours of solid tasting and the 2013 Abbesse is clearly a triumph: explosive
Sauvignon aromas matched with fruit salad and wonderful acidity on the palate.
It will be released in March so get your orders in quickly or risk the
inevitable sell out!
Back out into the extremely cold and dark night for a short drive to our hotel and dinner hosted by the Bougriers at the magnificent Château La Voute.
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